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Finale Ligure with James and Caro, our tricks!!!

The well known sea side town of Finale Liguria is found roughly 100km from the border with France.  People have been climbing here for years, due to its abundance of rock, with relatively easy access.  Rather than be focused on one or two main areas, the climbing here is spread amongst many smaller outcrops dotted around the thick wooded hillsides.  Because of this, finding the individual cliffs can be difficult, and getting lost is part of the package at Finale.

The climbing here comes in all styles, but is mainly focused on technical vertical pitches on fine, pocketed rock.  People often complain of harsh grades, but it is more the fact that the routes are highly technical, often polished in the easier grades, and heavily dependent on conditions in the harder... that and the fact that the Finalians love to sandbag!
“If my dick was measured to the grades in other places it would be 30cm long!”

 

How we got there...
Drive on the A10 from France for roughly 100km, and exit at Finale Liguria.  After 1km you will join the SS490, and after a further 1.5km you can go left into Finalborgo, the place to be in Finale!


Where we slept...
2km NW along the SP17 is a layby on the left hand side of the road, its not pretty, but it works if you arrive late and cant find the energy to search for anywhere better.  However, there are many small parkings that are much nicer up close to the cliffs.  There is even a cave on the left hand side of the road, just a little past the Castel that seems to be almost permanently inhabited!


Where we climbed...

We climbed in 2 different areas that are both reached from the same parking, a small area on the right of the road, 2km from the Castel (
N44.195828, E8.315994).  From here there are many tracks leading up and around the woods.  Its not quite a case of “all roads lead to Rome”, more that whatever path you take you will most likely get lost, but walk around for long enough and you will probably find your way.  The best however, is to walk NE out of the Carpark on a small path crossing a little stream, pass through some houses up some steps, and from there up into the woods.  Good Luck


Where to eat...
The
Osteria Con Cucina Antica (close to the church) is a nice place for traditional, rustic food and is close to the main climbing areas.  There are also lots of other options down in Finalborgo, and many more in Finale itself.  For breakfast, lunch, or whenever you feel like a snack, the panetteria on the right as you enter Finalborgo is a must!