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Grotti with James and Caro, our tricks!!!

 


No need to go to Margaleff or Buoux, Grotti is a mix of the two.  The sustained and fingery pocket pulling will take its toll on your skin, and like its close neighbour Ferentillo, it is best to wait for a cold winters day as the Sun bakes the walls for most of the day.


How to get there...
Located only 45km from Ferentillo, it takes between 1 and 1 ½ hours to reach Grotti due to small roads and occasional traffic problems.  From Ferentillo drive to the city of Reiti, and try to find signs for Avezzano, or the Valle del Salto.  We found this part particularly difficult, and found ourselves more than once sucked into an ugly one way system.  If all goes well, pass the Village of Casette and you will start to see some cliffs on your left, whith heavy industrial netting all along the base.  This is the newer spot of Grotti bassa, but dont stop here, instead continue a little further until you reach the town of Grotti itself.
Where we climbed...
Allmost all the sectors of Grotti are fortunately accessed in the same way.  After parking the car courteously on the right hand side of the road just after entering the town, follow an obvious path on the opposite side, left of some animal pens (dogs, chickens etc) and up towards the cliff.  The cliff is reached after less than 5 minutes, where you can walk along the base to access the individual sectors. 


The routes...
The combination of our already sore skin from Ferentillo, and the poor luck of again climbing in the full heat of the sun, made for a particularly painful experience.  The crux of each route was finding the motivation to continue climbing when all your fingers wanted was to go down.  I’m sure that with better conditions and skin, climbing at Grotti would be a lot less (but still a little) painful. Of the routes we did, I would recommend Terhima kasih, a great, (and hard) 7a+, EU, a continuous and pumpy (and hard) 7c, and Underworld, a long a varied (and hard, do you see the continued theme!) 8a+ that was a little more finger friendly than its neighbours.


Where we sleept...
The town of Grotti is currently in the midst of some major highway construction, and so is no longer the pretty quiet place it once was.  We actually parked our van on the access road to the building site, which was not the nicest place to sleep, but at least it was a little out of the way.

Roma, not so far away...